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Carving Analysis

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(@saucecache)
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Joined: 8 months ago
Posts: 3
Topic starter  

Hey! I need some help with my carving. The end goal is pencil carving, edge control, speed control, and eventually carving tricks. I've been snowboarding for about 2 years. I've attached a video below of my most recent ride for the smallest details to major technique errors analysis/advice. Hopefully you can also tell me why I feel at the very end because it happened so quick lol. 

Stats

Height/weight: 5'3 & 143 lbs

Boot: Shifty Boa (soft flex) size 7. My boots do feel loose with heel slip now that it's broken in. My regular shoe size is 7.

Bindings: Nidecker Supermatic step in bindings (medium stiff)

Board: Yes geats uninc asymmetric twin with camrock profile. (7/10 flex) size 151cm length, 253mm waist width

My stance width is 51 cm, stance(goofy) angle is currently possy pos. Front +27, Back +9

 

 

Cheers,

Tony

This topic was modified 8 months ago by saucecache

   
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Wild Cherry
(@wild-cherry)
Reputable Member Moderator
Joined: 9 months ago
Posts: 268
 

Lovely, thanks Tony.

While I like the bird style riding, your back wing needs to be tucked in tighter.  The moment before you fell your back arm is pointed up at the sky behind you, opening your hips to the toe edge. That hand should be very close to your front knee.  But don't get it there by reaching from the shoulder, get it closer by tucking in that back knee and rotating your hips to face into the turn, hips face more toward the front of your board and steer your hips into the turn.  

But that's not why you fell.  Have a look at the first few frames of the initiation into the first heelside and look at your track there.  I'm talking about 6s seconds and 7s.  You initiated slowly, your board was flat and your track was wide.  Now look at the second heeliside, just before the fall.  Look at your track there!  Much cleaner.  That was a decent initiation.  You kicked the board up earlier and way higher.  I think that was too aggressive for the speed you had on that flat part though.  Do it again like that but faster next time.  And bring that back hand forward toward the front knee by tucking the back knee in behind the front, dropping both knees into the turn and using the knees both to angulate your board high and to pressure your heel edge between the feet, and rotate onto the turn from the hips.  "Steer with your dick", I've becoming fond of saying.

 

Toesides...  

Keep your shoulders level.  Don't reach for the snow with the back hand, reach away from the snow, crunch in the opposite oblique and keep your shoulders level.

Also, try to find some of that body position I described above for toesides too: knees together, hips face front, hands close together and shoulders level.

I'm just slaying...


   
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(@saucecache)
Active Member
Joined: 8 months ago
Posts: 3
Topic starter  

@wild-cherry Thanks James! I totally see what you're saying. Ill definitely work on this next time I hit the slopes!


   
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Wild Cherry
(@wild-cherry)
Reputable Member Moderator
Joined: 9 months ago
Posts: 268
 

@saucecache Are you Tony N?  With the SPW?  I hadn't put these things together before now.

 

If you are, send more video on the new board and I'll give you more feedback.

I'm just slaying...


   
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(@saucecache)
Active Member
Joined: 8 months ago
Posts: 3
Topic starter  

@wild-cherry That's me James! Will definitely take videos with it when I can this season. Excited to use it!


   
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Wild Cherry
(@wild-cherry)
Reputable Member Moderator
Joined: 9 months ago
Posts: 268
 

@saucecache Very cool!  If you start booting out, swap those bindings for something lower profile.  The Supermatic adds 3.5 cm to your total boot plus binding length over the Flow bindings for example.  3.5cm!!!

I'm just slaying...


   
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