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Binding Modifications

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Wild Cherry
(@wild-cherry)
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Just today I set up a client with 1/4" of lift and 1/4' of can't in his bindings and it was an immediate game changer for him!  He was able to shift his hips and add more rotation right away, and the extra layers helped reduce boot out.  Try it!  

We used 1/4" rubber and fastened it with sticky velcro tape so that it would be easily removable if he didn't like it.  Tomorrow we'll use contact cement to glue them in permanently, he's never going back to flat.

I'm not exactly sure how the forward lean should be adjusted to accommodate this modification.  Experiment and report back in this thread please!

 

I'm just slaying...


   
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turms
(@turms)
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It would be nice to have some pics from these modifications. Als inspiration.

Only a snowboarder knows this feeling. And once you've felt it for yourself, it's impossible not to want more. It's so addictive that it should be illegal, but it's not and that's why they make such good snowboards that after riding them you want to sell everything and move to the mountains, because a man has to have a balance in his life, and that balance should be 80% snowboarding and 20% working.


   
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RiotSupercarver
(@riotsupercarver)
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The amount of lift (boot toe or heel) and the amount of cant (boot lateral tilt) needed will vary from rider to rider and the angles and stance distance they choose. The end goal is always comfort and function. Some experimentation is usually needed to find the "just right" amounts.

The same underlying skeletal/biomechanical principles apply whether you ride soft boot or hard boots snowboards, and those other weird planks, monoskis and skwals.

I put this together a few years ago now to show the links between rider physique, stance distance, binding angles, and whether therefore a given rider might likely benefit from lift and/or cant. When you understand the why, experimentation can be purposeful rather than just random guesses.

This post was modified 9 months ago 2 times by RiotSupercarver

   
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Wild Cherry
(@wild-cherry)
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Thanks @RiotSupercarver!  This is brilliant

I'm just slaying...


   
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(@slaybells)
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Hi folks,

I do have the Flux (CV) bindings (with its super high heel cup) and I have switched the front strap on the rear foot around to stop it scraping the snow, with my US size 13's, this is a must. I have also rotated the high-back to be parallel to the side-cut of the board, to aid in the pressing down on the edge.

I haven't yet experimented with canting, especially not with softies, I am trying to understand - is canting to compensate for some flexibility issue, or does it actually make it easier to switch edges, or apply pressure to edges?  Not that I am flexible, I have quite severe flat-foot issues, and at the moment, perpetual Achilles tendonitis...!

I do feel I need a gas pedal, since the CV's largest size is L, and I ideally need a XL.  I have Driver-X boots, which are low-volume, but it still is a tight fit in the heel-cup and the toes are left with that 'hanging over the edge' feeling.  However, it is not the toe side edging I have a problem with, it is the heel-side edge lockdown - due to the higher angles I need for my large feet (and I do have a wide board), it isn't my heels pressing down on the edge, it is my ankles. The high heel cup helps with this, but it is still an odd feeling, and to me, not that precise.  Would canting help with this?

Looking for this and other tips from fellow Sasquatches...

Slay

This post was modified 9 months ago by slaybells

   
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Board Doctor
(@board-doctor)
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Slay, have you tried one of these for stretching?

https://medi-dyne.com/products/prostretch-original-single

I really like the CV and CV-LTD, but I could see the softer highback being too soft for a Sasquatch.  But it's probably that toe over the edge issue.  I'm size 8 and fit right in the middle of the range, which is kind of unique to Flux (I'm usually at the low end of the sizing). It really doesn't sound like the right binding for you.

Big White, BC, Canada


   
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(@slaybells)
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@board-doctor Thanks for the calf stretching link, never seen that before, could be useful. (edit- but why is it just "one-size"??)

I do like the Flux CV, and I guess I will have to for this season, as I don't have the budget for another! 😀  I don't find the high-back soft at all, maybe they changed it.  I know other Flux's (not CV) are super soft and flexible, one of my friends had this.  They are not as stiff as the carbon-backed Unions I had, but I am ok with some flex.

This post was modified 9 months ago by slaybells

   
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Wild Cherry
(@wild-cherry)
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@slaybells  Try the JJA risers in the store.  They'll give you some clearance and some leverage over your edge, and they'll stiffen your board too, since I suspect you carry some weight on those size 13 flippers.  We don't sell then directly but email Jasey-Jay and he'll take care of you.  Order the large.

The lift and cant is more intended to make your stance more comfortable and efficient but it also adds some height.  The steeper your angles, the more important lift becomes.  

I often ride 1/4" lift on top of 1/4" cant on top of 1/2" risers.  Like today.  Right now!  Pow Mow is sunny and the groomers are firm.  Gotta go destroy my quota!

I'm just slaying...


   
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(@flyguy)
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It's funny how these same problems are reappearing now that carving is becoming popular again. I remember purchasing all aluminium canting plate in the 90's. I think they were offered by Burton (not 100% sure). Maybe whoever made them should pull them out of the dusty closets.


   
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Wild Cherry
(@wild-cherry)
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Posted by: @flyguy

all aluminium canting plate in the 90's.

Funny your should say that...  We're working on bringing back the Burton Universal Cant with some improvements, I have a 3D printed mock up in my board room right now!  It'll be available for purchase next season.

I'm just slaying...


   
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(@slaybells)
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@riotsupercarver Thank you, Riot, I did already see this some time back, can't remember all the mechanics and calculations, but i recall my takeaway then wass my foot+tibia to knee joint is 56cm (I have longer legs and shorter torso), so I increased my stance width accordingly.  I did feel it as more comfortable with the hard boots setup, had a bit more angle to bend my rear leg and get lower c of g. For soft, with my new wider board the boot angles are much less, so there it felt a hair too wide, but also, my board has a short tail, so it felt harder to bend it in a carve.  I will revisit the video again, though, thanks for taking the trouble to make it!


   
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(@slaybells)
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PXL 20240309 180157162

@wild-cherry I do notice the Flux CV have a built-in rise at the toe? Compared to my old Unions...

The board I ride is within my weight range - just, and carving specific (Swoard do not make any other kind), so no additional stiffening needed unless I am charging hard, which is not my style.

This post was modified 9 months ago 2 times by slaybells

   
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RiotSupercarver
(@riotsupercarver)
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Posted by: @slaybells

....my foot+tibia to knee joint is 56cm (I have longer legs and shorter torso), so I increased my stance width accordingly....

I have a fundamental gripe with the Nidecker method for measuring a body part and calculating a stance width from it. A reliable measurement has clearly defined start and end points so that the measurement can be repeatedly made and produce the same result. The top of your knee is too rounded to produce a reliable end point.

For a softboot duckfoot stance arguably the width of the pelvis and the length of the thigh bones are more important in determining how far apart you can comfortably and functionally place your feet.

A reliable measure of leg length with clear end points is the distance from the floor to the underside of the pubic bone of the pelvis, made in bare feet. And yes, different people are differently proportioned, with shorter or longer legs in proportion to their height. Leg length is obviously a major factor in determining appropriate stance distance. But hip joint flexibility, pelvis width, and the flexibility of the riders lumbar spine and abdominal muscles are also important but much more difficult to reliably measure.

In general terms a wider stance gives a larger base of support, and more leverage to rotate the board. A stance can be too long when it starts to limit the riders ability to control the board because the distance now limits the range of motion the rider needs for that control.

The best stance distance for a given rider is balanced, powerful, comfortable, and functional for the type of riding desired. Leg length gives you a starting point for experimentation, not a distance that is fixed in stone.

 

 


   
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Wild Cherry
(@wild-cherry)
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Posted by: @riotsupercarver

I have a fundamental gripe with the Nidecker method for measuring a body part and calculating a stance width from it. A reliable measurement has clearly defined start and end points so that the measurement can be repeatedly made and produce the same result. The top of your knee is too rounded to produce a reliable end point.

For a softboot duckfoot stance arguably the width of the pelvis and the length of the thigh bones are more important in determining how far apart you can comfortably and functionally place your feet.

A reliable measure of leg length with clear end points is the distance from the floor to the underside of the pubic bone of the pelvis, made in bare feet. And yes, different people are differently proportioned, with shorter or longer legs in proportion to their height. Leg length is obviously a major factor in determining appropriate stance distance. But hip joint flexibility, pelvis width, and the flexibility of the riders lumbar spine and abdominal muscles are also important but much more difficult to reliably measure.

In general terms a wider stance gives a larger base of support, and more leverage to rotate the board. A stance can be too long when it starts to limit the riders ability to control the board because the distance now limits the range of motion the rider needs for that control.

The best stance distance for a given rider is balanced, powerful, comfortable, and functional for the type of riding desired. Leg length gives you a starting point for experimentation, not a distance that is fixed in stone.

 

Brilliant stuff!  Thanks @riotsupercarver!  Well said.

I'm just slaying...


   
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wintervince
(@wintervince)
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My first attempt at modifying foot beds. It’s EVA mats sold at the dollar store. It’s a bit on the soft side, will try to get something more like natural rubber I guess. Glued using epoxy. First pair I did had 4 days out so far it holds well and improved my riding no questions. I will try more like James next time and compare.

image
image
image

 

 


   
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