Notifications
Clear all
Topic starter 28/04/2024 4:45 pm
So this is something I've been experimenting with quite a bit. I have hardboot setups, softboot setups and splitboard setups. I splitboard with both hardboots and softboots and also sometimes ride my softboot boards with hardboots. I've also tried to ride my hardboot boards with softboots but the board width quickly becomes a limiting factor.
That said, one of the most interesting outcomes with these experiments have been carving with modified ski touring boots. I first tried Atomic Backland Carbons that I modified with DGSS spring system, which replaces the walking mode with an adjustable spring system for both toeside and heelside turns. It looked like this:
That setup worked great but sadly the rear boot shell cracked. I got a new pair from the warranty but that cracked just the same so I didn't even try the third pair I got from warranty and those are now on sale. The board is Nidecker Tracer and the bindings are F2 Race Titanium Carbon Limited (I'm way over the weight limit but haven't had any problems). I still liked the setup so much that I wanted to search for something more durable from Atomic touring lineup and found Hawx Ultra XTDs:
These have been working really well for two season now and show now signs of breaking. However, this season I only rode them about 5 times but last season I rode them a lot. I switched the liner to Palau overlap because I just find overlaps much more comfortable.
One of the main reasons why I wanted to go for this kind of boots was to be able to carve my hardboot EC board and duckfoot EC board with the same boots. Two days ago I finally tried that. Strange feeling riding setups with over 70° difference in rear foot angle back to back. Works great but the boot sole length is a bit of a problem. The snow was soft and I had some bootout problems with toeside turns even though the setup was well centered and there was no overhang. The binding+boot combo is 325mm long with MP27 boot while with my smallest footprint softboot setup, I can get to 305mm. However the edge to edge speed and precision is on a totally another level with the touring boot setup. I could even carve switch way easier than with my softboot setup. I will probably use this setup to first destroy some cord with my hardboot EC board and then practice switch with my softboot EC board. I use +50R/+60F angles with my 247mm waist EC board and -21R/+21F with my softboot EC board with these boots. I can setup the flex just the way I want with the spring setup and binding tightness. Here's a photo showing both boards and the boots:
I think this kind of setup is really good for posi/posi. The flex and general ride quality is somewhere between more racing oriented snowboarding hardboots and softboots. Also these boots are great for splitboarding in nastier conditions since they provide better lateral support when touring than softboots. I also have two different pairs of softboot touring boots (Salomon Trek S/LAB and Deeluxe X-plorer).
Here's a short clip how these work in my hardboot EC configuration:
... and here's the only duckfoot footage I have with this setup but this is from late last season when I just got the board. I can ride it much better now:
Bob Wooten reacted
02/05/2024 12:15 am
Interesting experiment! How do drops and small jumps feel in these boots? (I ask about riding in trees) And I see your superwide sooftboard isn't twin, but you ride in duck. Don't you ride switch?
Amore al1
Topic starter 03/05/2024 8:51 pm
I haven't done much jumps with this setup but it's probably not ideal. The ride height is higher due to boot footbed being higher and the bindings I'm using don't have any cushioning (Spark Dyno DH). There's an aftermarket eva sheet available for the bindings though. I want as low ride height as possible and also dislike risers so for me the high ride height is a con but for people who like risers, this kind of setup might be great. The precision and agility is awesome for technical tree riding though and another great thing is that these boots are directly compatible with "tech toes" so you can have a really good binding system for going uphill. This is what I'm using to go uphill unless I grab a splitboard (these bindings work for splits as well):
Yeah, my board isn't twin but it carves switch great anyways. It's just that I'm not the greatest switch rider (yet 😎 ). Here's a vid where I changed the binding setup to regular and rode the board tail first goofy:
That's with "normal" softboots though.
