Advice / Aid

@wild-cherry Hello James. Tell me how to correctly calculate the width of the rack? As if I would like to make it a little wider. Now the fasteners are shifted back and the distance between them is 560 mm.

@firefighter I’ve got a boney instep, so pain and redness if it’s not dialed in.  Boots can be a bitch.  I mainly have Rome on my powder & all mountain boards. I like Flux on my carvers.  I have Jones Mercury on my Freecarver 6000, but I preferred the Flux CV (I just don’t like swapping bindings all the time).

@board-doctor Hello. On models ROME you are  using the top strap mounting lever rotation?
I'm asking this question because I have the same problems. I can't find a comfortable position. On my bindings t behere is a rotation of the lever, but I need advice on how to use it. Now it is the default.

On the front I put the pivot all the way up, you can measure up from the board to see what’s the highest (there’s only like 5mm of vertical difference between the top two so it may not be obvious).  The Proflex straps are comfy, but I wanted more support and drive on the front.  I previously adapted Burton straps, but the new Bataleon infinity swaps right on. I’m using two Infinity on my Vice, but I found that too locked in on the rear of the Cleaver, so I’m actually running the 2 diff straps on them.  I don’t think I’d like new Rome straps from this year.

I put the medial rear pivot one notch down just for a little more maneuverability.

Posted by: @firefighter

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Hello James. Tell me how to correctly calculate the width of the rack? As if I would like to make it a little wider. Now the fasteners are shifted back and the distance between them is 560 mm.

Not sure of an exact formula for stance width.  My inseam length is about 79cm and my stance width is the same as yours, 56cm.  Sometimes 55cm on smaller boards.  

I'm seeing more and more how important lift and cant in the bindings is too.  

Here’s a good vid to start with:

I’ve summarized it in this table.  Your natural stance is the height to the centre of your knee cap, and you move out from there depending on purpose:

I haven’t went that narrow for carving though, I’m still at NS+3

@wild-cherry I'm not sure if my thought will be accurate in translation, but I'll try to convey it accurately. With a larger positive mounting angle, it seems to me that a wider rack is needed to make a thread along the back edge. maybe the peculiarities of my anatomy. to sit on my hind leg and straighten my front leg, 56 cm is not enough for me. I ask you to think about my assumption. Please.

Posted by: @firefighter

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to sit on my hind leg and straighten my front leg

That's not uncommon.  You have to bring some attention to your front leg, bring your weight forward by bending both legs together and leaning over the nose of the board.

If 56cm feels too narrow then try wider.  Adding some heel lift in the back binding and toe lift in the front binding can help a wider posi-posi stances feel more natural.

I think that the steeper your angles the tighter you want to make your stance though, not the opposite as you suggest.  The chart @board-doctor posted confirms this too.

You didn't say how tall you are, or your inseam length or your knee height, but for an average size man 56cm is pretty close for a post-posi carving stance.

@wild-cherry Yes, I'm sorry - my height is 175 cm. I heard about the formula (Height + 1 cm) / 3.2. This corresponds to 55 cm. But my Jones does not have this position- 54 or 56. 56 is convenient for me. Tonight I will try to set it to 58 cm. There is little time left, another week at most and the slope will be closed.

And another stupid question - on a “regular” board, what is the maximum positive angle of the directional stance that is allowed? Looking at Asian carvers - they can have up to 36°/30°

Posted by: @firefighter

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And another stupid question - on a “regular” board, what is the maximum positive angle of the directional stance that is allowed? Looking at Asian carvers - they can have up to 36°/30°

Some of them use even higher angles than that!  I've ridden up to 39/24 on a board that was roo narrow and stiff for me.  It carved well at those angles but the steeper you go the more compromises you make on switch riding and jump turns, and the more heel lift in the back foot and toe lift in the front becomes necessary. 

So there's no "limit" and there's no "maximum allowable" stance angles, play around and see what works for you with your body and your gear and your style.

@wild-cherry James, you're damn right! I am reporting on my "achievements" today. I set the width of the rack to 58 cm. I pushed the binding as far back as possible . polyurethane was placed under the rear heel and front toe. And if it hadn't been for the slope that melted during the day, which turned into ice by the evening, then there was a feeling that it became easier to cut on the back edge. But unfortunately, I was hit by an inexperienced girl-skier who couldn't handle the controls on the ice. Therefore, I could not fix the result. But your advice helped me. Thank you.

Posted by: @wild-cherry

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3. Drive the back knee into the turn, use it to pressure the heel edge between your feet 

I see this frequently, both in written text and mentioned in videos. What does it mean, exactly? I think I have it figured out on toesides (there's a movement I do which triggers more g-forces), but on the heelside I can't figure out how to replicate it.

Yesterday I tried playing with moving it forward kind of like I do on the toeside, but it didn't seem to make much difference.

I think of this as not just the knee, but really driving the rear binding into the centre of the board (through the arch of your foot).  This basically decambers the board into the arc of a turn.  You can do this to get board turning before experiencing much G-force, but it's also effective at holding the end of the turn (when you experience less G-force and the board just wants to spring out of the turn).

@board-doctor Yeah, I understand what you mean, and looking at my tracks in the snow the radius shortens up a lot at the end of my turns when I do this on toeside turns.

However I still don't understand how you accomplish this on heelside turns... Seems like I have to push the back binding in the direction it's most flexible, there's just nothing opposing "inward" movement around the arch of my foot. On the toeside I just push through my ankle strap and the posi-posi stance translates this to a decamber force on the board as well as more angulation on that side.