Issues about softboots carving.
After watching James's end of season rant video, I want to point out a few things. I agree with most of what James is saying. The snowboard industry needs some changes. The false advertising about all mountain boards being great for carving must end. From my experience, many people buy these self-proclaimed good all-mountain carving boards expecting to perform like James's JJA, but it often results in disappointment. Either they'll realize it's a skill issue, or the board isn't designed for those turns, leading them to give up on carving. This false advertising is hindering new boarder from getting into hardcore carving.
Regarding equipment prices, I understand that metal boards are more expensive to produce than regular wood core boards. However, beginners don't necessarily need a metal board to start carving. The technology in softer beginner boards isn't as advanced, so there's no justification for them to cost 1000 US dollars. The high entry cost is currently deterring people from trying this style of riding.I believe in equipment progression. Beginners shouldn't start on an Oxess World Cup board with an Allflex plate.
Lastly, I want to discuss the board's waist, which is where I somewhat disagree with James. I'm not a fan of super-wide boards; the wider the board, the more challenging it is to flip. Especially with metal boards, they can become extremely heavy, making it feel like the board is controlling you. Additionally, boards with smaller waists offer more options when choosing a manufacturer. European companies like Virus, Oxess, and Apex make boards with waists up to 272 mm, and Mark from Thirstsnowboard also makes boards with waists up to 273 mm.
Yeah some of these off-the-shelf 'carving' boards are only incrementally better than others. But there is a wide range of 'carving'. Freestyle includes everything from groomer tricks to super pipe and big air. Freeriding includes low angle pow to big mountain, icy cliff faces. What is carving/Freecarving? It's not well defined and marketing does take advantage of that.
About the metal, I have a board with aluminum stringers and I want more. It just feels so planted. I wish more manufacturers offered metal constructions (it seems to be more common with skis). Mass produced boards really are becoming ridiculously expensive for what you get.
I'm apprehensive about super wide boards as well, my ankles get tired.
Big White, BC, Canada
Posted by: @pigbroggThis false advertising is hindering new boarder from getting into hardcore carving.
Good point!
Posted by: @pigbroggBeginners shouldn't start on an Oxess World Cup board with an Allflex plate.
Also true, but a metal board designed for an intermediate carver is entirely appropriate and needed. In the big picture, when you add up all your kit, your gas, lift tickets and in some cases airfare and hotels, the extra cost of the board is relatively minor but so worth it if you're carving.
A high performance metal board in the range of $1250 USD isn't crazy. I burn through a new $500 pair of boots ever season but the boards last far longer, for example. What does a mid-performance entry level mountain bike cost by comparison? People will pay an extra $1000 USD to drop a single pound off their bike resulting in only a slight performance differential, but the difference between carving a $300 board and a $1300 board is immense and so worth it!
Posted by: @pigbroggmaking it feel like the board is controlling you
Love that feeling!
Posted by: @board-doctorI'm apprehensive about super wide boards as well, my ankles get tired
The industry won't even make asymmetrical boards anymore because they're afraid of unsold stock. Pushing for the same model in multiple widths is not in the cards yet for production boards. Very common for custom boards though.
We'll see on Friday whether your ankles get tired before the grin on your face and the elation in your heart wear off... Looks to be decent conditions on the Stoke chair but it's steep up there, be prepared.
I'm just slaying...
Posted by: @wild-cherryLooks to be decent conditions on the Stoke chair but it's steep up there, be prepared.
I've ridden the runs off the Stoke before, though on a familiar board with a tighter sidecut. I might need a warmup first! Apparently my new boot liners have arrived, so those should help me drive it with my size 8 boots.
Another thought on width... the common 'waist' metric really isn't great. It gives you an idea of the overall width, but as you get away from average board specs as a frame of reference it really starts to fall apart. For example, my 154 Jones Freecarver with a 6.5m SCR & 263WW has a tip/tail of 328/319. My 165 Korua Trenchdigger with a 10m SCR & 262WW has a tip/tail width of 307/290. Although the waist is only 1mm narrower, the tip/tail is 21mm/29mm narrower (due to the significantly larger radius). The width at the inserts is somewhere in between (which is really the desired number in terms of boot drag/clearance). When you go to a longer SCR, you really do need more WW to maintain underfoot width. It'd be great if manufacturers told us the underfoot widths at reference.
Big White, BC, Canada
Posted by: @board-doctorIt'd be great if manufacturers told us the underfoot widths at reference.
Agreed! I don't care about the 'running length' for example, give me 'effective edge' specs, 'sidecut depth' and 'width underfoot' for carving boards!
I'm just slaying...
Posted by: @leshiyTo James: Why did you abandon hard boots?
I haven't abandoned hard boots though I rarely ride them anymore. The boots, interface, and stance in softboots are more comfortable and versatile. Even just sitting on the slope in a hard boot stance is awkward, not to mention jump turns or moguls. And now that I have the boards I need to make the fast high g-force turns I love so much, so there's not much reason to ride my hard boots anymore.
I'm just slaying...
I think the current trend of board sellers pushing volume shifted needs to stop. They aren’t finding out how/where you’re riding and just blanket selling shorter boards that aren’t necessarily the best for the rider.
Before my journey into the world of carving, I was sold a board sized down. It works great in powder, but being east coast, that’s an almost never occurrence. I would have benefited from the correct size for the longer effective edge for the groomers where I spend 99% of my time.
Thankfully I’m more educated/experienced now. But I bet a great many riders are getting mislead based on trend and not how/where they’re riding.
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