2024: Hard boot bindings

This post is a basic FYI. The best English language site for really learning more about hardboot snowboard carving is

https://forums.alpinesnowboarder.com/

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2 types: Bail or Step -in

Bail bindings: metal loops front and rear typically 5-6mm thick steel. Front loop has a plastic or metal lever toe piece that is engaged with the toe piece of the boot and then flipped so that the lever tail sits against the boot foot shell.

Step-ins: Modern designs are generally Intec (trademarked to F2) compatible. Front toe loop, compatible boot heel has a stainless steel rounded pin protruding either side which engages with matching holes in the steel heel receiver when the rider engages the toe then presses down the boot heel. Release is by pulling on a cable that runs internally to the boot heel, causing the pins to retract into the heel and allowing the rider to step out.

Both types have their enthusiasts.

Bail bindings, in general, have more lateral flexibility that step-ins.
Racers, extreme carvers, & Pureboarding style riders more often prefer bail bindings. Many freecarvers ride bail bindings.
All current hard snowboard boot designs will fit bail bindings of the appropriate size. Most ski boots can be fitted into bail bindings (Ski boots are not recommended long term because they generally lack sufficient forwards and backwards range of cuff motion to allow effective hard boot snowboarding).

Stepins, once any snow/ice has been cleared from the boot sole are generally easy to enter and exit without having to bend your back much. The braided wire cables can fail over time making it difficult to remove the boot as they typically fail when the cable is pulled to release the boot.
Stepins have great lateral force transmission. Cable can be fed down either side of the heel, but conventionally are placed on the outside of the boot.

Of the current hard snowboard boot manufacturers in the Western world only Deeluxe and UPZ make boots able to use Intec type heel units. Japanese and Korean riders may have access to brands in their countries without English websites.

Hard boot bindings chosen should be capable of a wide variety of binding angles, and having both toe/heel lift added and lateral tilt (canting) added, if either of these is preferred or needed. Binding setup is another thread.

F2 are the largest manufacturer of hard boot snowboard bindings (and make other snowboard carving gear).
                                        https://www.f2boards.com/en/winter/f2-snow/bindings

A not complete list of other suppliers includes
Bomber                            https://www.bomberonline.com/Bindings_c_8.html
Sigi Grabner                     https://www.shop-sgsnowboards.com/product/sg-performance-bindings/
Carving Company              https://www.pureboarding.com/en/shop/bindings
Phiokka                            https://www.phk-italia.com/en/snow/

And again the Japanese/Korean market have local manufacturers as well.

Using older bindings made more than 10 years ago is not recommended. Carving puts significant stress on bindings, plastics lose their flexibility over time, and metal suffers flexion fatigue. Having a single binding fail and release one leg while riding at 50km/hr or more can lead to season ending injuries. Experienced riders check their bindings frequently for pre-failure signs like cracks, surface changes etc.

For someone just starting out hard boot snowboard carving or racing, it’s hard to go wrong with an appropriate size pair of bail or step-in bindings from F2 (note that different Mondo size boots fit one or more of Small/Medium/Large). A new pair will come with canting wedges for both bindings and lift wedges for one binding. Buying a second lift kit as part of your binding purchase is recommended.
Bindings from the other manufacturers have nuances to their designs that more experienced riders may appreciate, and are often more expensive, and less widely available.