C4 New Drop

Posted by: @wild-cherry

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Jasey wants to call the C3 "The C4 162" and I'm good with that.  It's 162cm long, 286mm waist, 11m average sidecut.

Posted by: @wild-cherry

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this is a slightly smaller and narrower version for icy or crowded resorts and smaller riders.

Thanks BD. Nice to see you here as well

I think James said it was first come, first served... when you're order comes up he'll see what's left in stock, and if it's not suitable you'll be in the next order.

If you go for the 162 you'll probably want a mid flex at your weight (over 170lbs?).  If you go for the 166 you might actually want to go soft for your ice-coast terrain. Something to talk to him about.

My 166 (soft with the EGS) isn't broken in yet, but I don't think it's too soft and I'm over 180lbs (I hope to get back under 160lbs).  We rarely get a groomed black diamond and I'm just not generating the G-forces that Cherry does.

I see. Good to know

Yeah, I’m 5’9 175 lbs but usually around 165-170. Performance boot size at 7.5 now 

I was thinking 162 EGS soft or mid since I’m also east coast and would prefer a bit more maneuverability 

For future tuning purposes, what is the side edge and base bevel of the C4?

Answer from James:
2 degree side edge

1 degree base bevel

@neversnowbored @mouse 

Sorry, I never noticed this topic before.  Type "@wild-cherry" in the text next time please and I'll get an email notification.

Thanks to @board-doctor for filling in for me...

@wild-cherry 

Hi. I don't really know if I'm writing in the right topic but hope it's alright. So I have just recently started to research a little deeper into something this comunity is trying to promote, snowboard carving. I started snowboarding just a two years ago, switching to board from skis. However, once i learned all the basics i realized that the modern era of snowboarding is all about doing tricks on soft boards and scraping your edges on the slope, I quickly started considering switching over to skis again. I wanted to feel the G's, the edges digging into the snow... and then I discovered what snowboard carving is about.

Firstly started to watch this japanese dude named Kento, and then I came over one of your popular YT videos. I Became obsessed, just by watching people like you carve. So here is my question. I wanna learn to carve like you right, no matter how long it takes, i take it as a lifetime mission. How long is it going to take before these regular mass production boards start limiting me?

I live in europe, and I don't get much time on the slopes per year (like three weeks max, which begs the question if it is even possible to get at least close to your level). I have just started trying to feel the egde at the end of our season this year, progressively going from duck stance to +20 +10. Should I just continue learning on a regular camber profile board and if so, when is the right time to get a dedicated carving board like one of your Jasey-Jay beauties? I would appreciate your response.

@adamwantstocarve Thanks for posting!  I'm happy to help, it's kind of what I do...

Posted by: @adamwantstocarve

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How long is it going to take before these regular mass production boards start limiting me?

It's probably already limiting you.  I hear this a lot: "I want to practice on my production board until I feel ready for a high performance setup".  The fact is, carving is way harder on a low performance board.  It's more physically demanding and it will require better technique than a more grippy and forgiving board that will do a lot of the work for you. 

The one upside of that production boards is that it's slower, and that can make it easier in a way but a high performance board can be tuned to whatever speed you're ready for.  I generally put riders on boards that they can grow into so it can be a little much at first but progress is way faster than working with a production board.

Another huge limiting factor of production boards is the narrow width which will cause a lot of boot drag and put you on your ass just as you start to figure out how to tip it up high on edge.

I bought my nine year old daughter a used Donek this winter for example and was amazed at how quickly it improved her carving.  Her speed was higher and her angulation improved immediately.  Her little Burton Chopper was too soft and was limiting her progression.  It took only a couple of days before she was comfortable on the new ride.

Generally speaking, the production "carving" boards are in the range of 122cm effective edge and 8-9m sidecuts.  These boards aren't designed to be angulated high on edge, they're made for all around easy riding.  Some of them are wide enough to carve without catastrophic boot drag, but they can only handle so much edge pressure before they start to chatter so you'll be making tight turns at slow speeds on easy terrain.  Carving these on steeps is very challenging.

Posted by: @adamwantstocarve

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Should I just continue learning on a regular camber profile board and if so, when is the right time to get a dedicated carving board like one of your Jasey-Jay beauties?

It's mostly a question of money...  If you can afford it, the right time is now.  I also recommend the Trenched Canted Risers and a rear entry binding from Flow.  Coupled with a stiff low profile boot, stiffeners and straps, you could be riding a world class setup right away for less than a mediocre mountain bike.

If you can't afford it all immediately then build your setup over time and get comfortable riding in a posi posi stance.  Which parts of the system you will want to upgrade first will depend on what you're riding with currently.

The resale value on these boards is excellent too so you can get one that suits your skill level now and trade up to something bigger after a season.  Which size and flex is right for you depends on a lot of factors; I have a discussion with each client to make sure that we choose the most suitable model.  For riders in the intermediate to advanced range the JJA C4 is the board of choice, that one currently comes in two sizes three flexes (six options).  I expect to have a third size available for the next batch for nine total model options.

These are sold out at the moment.  The next batch will be announced in the summer at some point.  Make sure your name is on the waitlist and look for an email from me in a few months: www.carversconnection.com/waitlist/.

Posted by: @wild-cherry

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I expect to have a third size available for the next batch for nine total model options.

[...]

The next batch will be announced in the summer at some point.  Make sure your name is on the waitlist and look for an email from me in a few months: www.carversconnection.com/waitlist/.

Oh, can you tell us more about the third model? I'm guessing wider so it won't be for me and my tiny feet! 😀 But still curious!

This time I'm already standing with money in hand ready for the summer batch!

Posted by: @adamwantstocarve

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I started snowboarding just a two years ago, switching to board from skis.

[...]

I live in europe, and I don't get much time on the slopes per year (like three weeks max, which begs the question if it is even possible to get at least close to your level).

Are we the same person? 😉 Swede, started snowboarding properly this year, going from loving carving on skis until my legs cramp to chasing that high on a board.

For me the best way to learn to carve on a board has been to ride wide, flat, and mellow greens and do open parentheses-shaped turns rather than trying to do closed C-shaped turns. You don't have to have as much speed, you don't pick up as much speed and you don't have to tip the board as much on edge, and you don't have to be as scared of out of control skiiers.

Also, after having taught an adult (35 years) friend to ski, starting season 23/24) there's something about getting proper equipment to ride/ski. He did so much better on proper skis this year compared to "beginner" skis last year and was able to progress much faster in much worse conditions this year.

Posted by: @superfelix

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Oh, can you tell us more about the third model?

It's not finalized yet but I'd like to offer a C4 169 with a 13m sidecut and 300mm waist for the larger riders.  Similar in size to the G5 but with the C4 tech that makes it easy and friendly.  The G5 is a faster ride and less forgiving.  These might be on offer too but there are fewer riders who are ready for these.  The prototype is fantastic!  (For me...)

Posted by: @adamwantstocarve

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(like three weeks max, which begs the question if it is even possible to get at least close to your level)

Well I've been averaging 80 days per season for almost 20 years, but I was never a particularly gifted athlete.  I had to figure out the technique and make it work with garbage equipment, and then more recently I had to (help) develop the high performance soft boot carving gear.

So you will have some advantages @adamwantstocarve: the equipment is available commercially now and the instruction is on YouTube.  Things are always way easier once they've been done before and proven to be possible.  I was alone in the dark for years wondering if I could make it work and trying everything I could think of to figure out how...

Hello everyone,

I’ve been a fan of JJSB since the Boomerang logo days, and even after the Japanese distributor disappeared, I’ve continued riding boards such as the TBX158, ClearZ162, SNX161titanal, SNX161carbon, Fish158 (vgf), and the TBX164 with a floating plate, among other JJSB boards. I also own several Oxess BX boards, but I still prefer the ride feel of JJSB, which finally led me to this page.

I’m 180 cm tall, weigh 75 kg, and I use Ride 27 cm boots. My bindings are Now O-Drive in size M, mounted at 33° (front), 21° (back) with a 56 cm stance.

Since I’m not really inclined to change my angles, I’m wondering if there’s a lineup here with a waist of 265 mm or more and a board length of 165 cm or above.

Also, when I ordered a TBX164 with a sidecut of 13/14.5 m and a flex rating of 6 out of 10, I found it too stiff. Therefore, I’m aiming for a flex rating of around 4 or 5.

I’d love to hear your thoughts.

Posted by: @adamwantstocarve

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How long is it going to take before these regular mass production boards start limiting me?

Posted by: @wild-cherry

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Generally speaking, the production "carving" boards are in the range of 122cm effective edge and 8-9m sidecuts.  These boards aren't designed to be angulated high on edge, they're made for all around easy riding.  Some of them are wide enough to carve without catastrophic boot drag, but they can only handle so much edge pressure before they start to chatter so you'll be making tight turns at slow speeds on easy terrain.  Carving these on steeps is very challenging.

100%

You can still progress and have fun (on mellow slopes) with many production boards, but they'll be limiting.  More effective edge is certainly confidence-inspiring, especially dropping into a heelside.  While I can still carve the JJA-C4 on mellow greens, most of my other boards will "shit the bed" on steeper blues.  

Note that the 12m sidecut is faster though, and I'm still slarving the steeps to help control speed.  An injury took me out for 2 months this season so I hope to progress a lot more next year.  Before the injury I was starting to drag my butt occasionally... and standing back up from that was always a thrill.

After riding for over 30 years, I got a Stranda Shorty a couple years ago.  This board allowed higher edge angles to really manipulate turn shape, and that really got me into carving.  I was practically always posi/posi so that wasn't a hurdle.  Then I got a Freecarver 6000, which I still ride an awful lot as well.  But once I got on a C4 I just had to get one.  It's more effort to get on edge with my mondo 260 boots, but there's nothing else I'd rather ride in good conditions.  I seem to get noticed more when I'm on that board.  I never even got my Korua Trenchdigger out this year.  I definitely have less than 100 days of real carving and I'm certainly still progressing.  Some "cheat codes" from James have certainly helped.

If you want to feel G's, I'd say you need triax glass, some additional carbon (at least in the tail), enough width for your boots (a waist that's roughly your mondo size or more), and as much EE as you can get.

Hey @spar_snb, that's quite a collection!

Posted by: @spar_snb

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I’ve continued riding boards such as the TBX158

@Martina has one of these, it's her preferred carving board even though it's way too stiff for her.  But this is old tech, ten years or more.  The new generation will blow your mind!

Posted by: @spar_snb

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I’m wondering if there’s a lineup here with a waist of 265 mm or more and a board length of 165 cm or longer.

Right now we have the C4 162 with 139cm effective edge and 286mm waist, and the C4 166 with 142 effective and 292 waist.  Coming soon are the C4 169 with about 144 effective and 300mm waist and the Big Snowboards G5 168 which is a similar size but faster and less forgiving, rides with more g-force.

The new trend is wider.  I know that's not how they do it in Japan but anything long and narrow would probably have to be custom.

Be more specific about your desired effective edge length, waist width, sidecut radius, and ride characteristics?  I'll see what I can do.