Options for the JJA C4 166

Posted by: @7b808

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should I move the front binding back/down one notch (green marks up top) or bring the back binding up one notch (white marks).

Neither. 

THIS IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW FOR C4 RIDERS:

Jasey added an extra set of inserts to the C4 toward the tail end.  So the recommended center of the stance is not the center of the insert pack.  That's why he put that center mark on the third insert from the front.  This mark is the recommended center!

So...  To get a 51cm (20 inch) stance you would center your bindings on the blue marks I added to your photo.  Narrower than that is getting a bit extreme for such a big board (even at your height @7b808), I suggest you ride it at 20" and see how it feels after a day.  (If it's still uncomfortably wide then try some heel and toe lift for better positioning, or try a better binding disk that you can slide and drop just 1/4" from each side, or use the Flow disks because the holes are offset so you can adjust in both the longitudinal and lateral directions, you don't have to choose just one.  A surprising number of binding center disks are compatible across brands.)

Posted by: @7b808

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should I move the front binding back/down one notch (green marks up top) or bring the back binding up one notch (white marks).

Neither. 

THIS IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW FOR C4 RIDERS:

Jasey added an extra set of inserts to the C4 toward the tail end.  So the recommended center of the stance is not the center of the insert pack.  That's why he put that center mark on the third insert from the front.  This mark is the recommended center!

So...  To get a 51cm (20 inch) stance you would center your bindings on the blue marks I added to your photo below.  Narrower than that is getting a bit extreme for such a big board (even at your height @7b808), I suggest you ride it at 20" and see how it feels after a day. 

(If it's still uncomfortably wide then try some heel and toe lift for better positioning at the wider stance, or try a better binding disk that you can slide and drop just 1/4" from each side, or use the Flow disks because the holes are offset so you can adjust in both the longitudinal and lateral directions, you don't have to choose just one anymore.  A surprising number of binding center disks are compatible across different brands so check that old parts box or your local thrift store.)

But you're right @7b808 to move your bindings the same distance each from the center mark for best results.  Not everybody knows how to do this properly, I think it's important and I also find it frustrating sometimes when the insert spacing won't allow for my favorite stance width while staying centered as recommended by the builder.  (Had this problem only with my TD3s that could only move in 1cm increments, F2 bindings I could slide, and I swap my center disks on soft boot bindings as needed when I want to fine tune my stance.)

So, for the uninitiated: 

1. Find and measure the center of the insert packs (or for a C4, use the C marks - it's 55cm).

2. Calculate the difference between the measurement from step 1 and your preferred stance width.

3. Move each binding half the difference you calculated in step 2, this is the recommended stance center for you on the subject board.  Start there.  This method yields a balanced stance in harmony with the board's design. 

4. Move both bindings together forward or back the same distance from the recommended stance center position you determined in step 3 if you like to ride your carving boards forward or rearward of center.  This maintains that balanced stance in harmony with the board's design. 

Step 4 is optional, moving them forward or back is a personal preference.   I ride the C4 at 55cm at the recommended center; I'm 5'10", with slightly longer than average legs for my height.  (In truth I ride all of my other carving boards one notch (2cm) forward of the recommended center but with all the testing last season and only one set of Flow bindings, I never had the time to test out the forward position properly.)

Posted by: @wild-cherry

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for a C4, use the C marks - it's 55cm

Splitting hairs here, but I think ref is an even 22" (actually 55.88cm, which is closer to 56cm).

I am happy to see the additional setback inserts.  Sometimes I like to have my rear at reference (as designed) and not necessarily centered on sidecut (as designed, but with a narrower stance).  For me it's easier to shift my weight forward to initiate a turn, rather than get it back when completing a turn.

Glad to say that the C4 #20 has arrived here in Norway! It looks and feels awsome. If the riding is as good, I'll be a very happy guy 😊

@wild-cherry I appreciate the information! Glad I asked 🙂 Understood, I'll take your instructions and slide out to a 20" width and see how it treats me. I had no idea those marks were the centers. Good to know!

I took your recommendation on boots and found some Ride Insanos. Love them. I got a new set of Ride A-10 aluminum bindings. I personally love them on any board. Very responsive and comfy.

Thanks again.

#14 has landed, what a beast! 

... and finally number 13 has arrived in Austria, what a beauty 😱 😀 - incredibly. I was on my Knapton last Sunday, pure artificial snow very icy and to brutal to warm up at the beginning of the season, but I had some good turns ... C4 hast to wait for the first mission ... 

@board-doctor - I’ve been out on the C4 three days this early season - I initially set the board up with a symmetrical centered setup - did not feel super confident - made some great turns but nose hookup on to side was grabby. For this week, I set it up like my other carving boards - small rear bias from center of effective edge - 8.5” forward and 11.75” rearward from center. 

Awesome difference. The C4 felt super confident and held edges firmly at steep angles on mostly manmade perfectly groomed snow at Loveland CO. 

Where is the centre of the effective edge (sidecut)?

From my rudimentary measurements, I think the reference is actually about 20mm back on the sidecut (and 40mm back on board).  But that's just me eyeballing it.

@ronaldb I think you might want that 171 extra wide 305 waist red prototype board James is going to list for sale. But I think he said he wants a regular rider on it ecause its an asym. Probably best to wait and get a custom-made board for your dimensions. But we will have to wait for @wild-cherry to chime in for proper advice.

@ronaldb Wow, you're a big man...

There is some chance of a slightly wider and longer C4 coming in April.  I need to see how many big men have ordered boards in this latest batch.

The Red ASYM 175 is recommended for regular riders and the blue (goofy) is spoken for already.

Some chance of a small run of custom big boards over the summer too but these will be very very expensive since materials will have to be patched together so it's more material and more time too.

For the moment, only Donek is making boards over 305 in the waist.  Maybe consider them.  Ask for a 340mm waist Flux with a 12m sidecut.  They're not in the same performance category as a C4 but they're hella wider!

@ronaldb What's the width of your current board under the rear foot?  The C4 is 296mm, so that'll give you idea of how much overhang you'll have on the C4.

I'm guessing it'll be somewhere around 17mm on both the toe & heel.  You wouldn't be able to lay it over like Cherry, but maybe it'd be enough edge angle for your riding (more modest slopes, firmer hardpack)?

Thank you all for your replies.
Much appreciated!!

@board-doctor 
My stranda cheater is 26,8cm under back foot.
(I always thought I had the wide version 26,0 vs 27,5, but now that i measured this after 2 years; I've gotten the regular version, which is another story with the seller of the shop)

As in the image, I can angle to 68° on toe and 69° on heel side.
On the front indeed 1,7 and so does the back in same ratio.
Note that (even not clearly visible in image) the heelcup touches first, although just slightly..
The Flow NX2 are on the way to have a bit more space.

@lake-m-carver 
Thank you for your reply. That came to my mind as well, albeit in "wrong" stance.

@wild-cherry 
I will look out then for the possibility for april or when the 175 goes in production.
The 175 will be a serious board in comparision with the 8,5m cheater vs the 14m sidecut..

@wild-cherry does the new batch of C4's 166 mid flex have titanal?  thanks